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Why Consent Matters for Our Dogs

Posted by Catherine Comden in Dog Training and Behavior
03.18.2026

We’ve all experienced it – someone stepping a little too close for comfort, invading our personal space when we need a breather, or even embracing without asking. YUCK!

Did you know your dog can feel the same way? They do, but they don’t have the words to express it. Instead, they rely on body language and subtle signals to tell us when they’re feeling crowded or disrespected.

A black tri-color young Sheltie is being petted by many hands and looks stressed with whale eyes and tight mouth.

Oops! These wide eyes and tight mouth are clues this dog could use a break.

Just like humans, dogs have personal space needs. They may love cuddles and pets, but not always – and not from everyone. Whether it’s kids pulling at their fur, strangers swooping in for a pat, or even other dogs getting a little too pushy, dogs can feel overwhelmed when their space is invaded. Dogs can’t verbally say “back off,” but they give plenty of signals to communicate their need for space.

How Dogs Say “I Need Space”

Dogs are masters of non-verbal communication, and they often give clear cues when they’re feeling uncomfortable. Here are some signs to watch for:

  • Turning their head or body away: This is like a polite way of saying, “I’m not into this right now.”
  • Yawning or licking their lips: Not always a sign of tiredness, dogs yawn or display “tongue flicks” when they’re feeling anxious or uneasy.
  • Ears back or tail tucked: These are signs that your dog is feeling stressed or scared.
  • Moving away or hiding: If a dog is physically trying to get out of a situation, it’s a clear sign they want out.

When dogs give these signals, they’re asking for space and showing that they don’t feel comfortable. If we ignore these signs, we risk making them more anxious, or even causing them to react defensively, meaning: Look out! They may bite! And before you think, “Not my dog”, realize that even the nicest among us can be pushed to a point where we’d lash out to defend ourselves.

The Importance of Consent: Building Trust

Respecting your dog’s boundaries is not just about avoiding stress; it’s also about building trust. When a dog knows that you’ll respect their space, they feel safer and more confident. Just like in human relationships, trust is built when we listen and respect each other’s needs.

One way to practice this is by offering your dog choices. Before letting someone pet or play with them, see if they will come to that person first. Do they lean in for affection, or do they stay back? If they move away, that’s their way of saying, “Not right now.” This simple act of giving your dog a choice reinforces the idea that their feelings matter. You should do the same for other dogs you meet – give them a choice and see if they’ll come to you when you invite them.

The “Consent Test”: A Fun Way to Respect Your Dog’s Space

Here’s a fun and easy way to teach both kids and adults to respect a dog’s boundaries: the “Consent Test.” Before touching the dog, simply ask them with your actions:

Turn sideways, pat your leg and call to them.

  • If they move closer, lean in or nuzzle, they’re giving you a green light.
  • If they turn away or show any of the signals we mentioned earlier, it’s time to give them some space.

When someone asks to pet your dog, say, “Let’s ask the dog,” and invite your friend to turn sideways, pat their leg and call your dog. If the dog is into them, she’ll go say hi. If not, respect her decision and say, “aww, I guess she’s not up for it right now.”

Respecting Boundaries Strengthens Bonds

When we respect dogs’ personal space, we build stronger, healthier relationships with them. A dog that knows their needs are understood is more likely to feel secure and less likely to develop stress-related behaviors. Just like humans, dogs thrive when they feel heard and safe. By paying attention to their signals, giving them choices, and respecting their boundaries, we create an environment where they know they are understood and supported. And who wouldn’t want that kind of relationship with their dog?

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Let’s Simplify Behavior Change: Solve the Behavior Puzzle

Posted by Catherine Comden in Dog Training and Behavior
05.16.2025

There are many frameworks in the dog world that are designed to give us a sound approach to behavior change without relying on pain or fear. Here are a few great examples you may have heard of: LIMA, the Humane Hierarchy, LIFE, or the Hierarchy of Dog Needs. At CATCH, our goal is to take complex topics and make them easy to understand. So we’ve taken the core themes from these models and boiled it down to one clear, actionable method that we call Solve the Behavior Puzzle. This five-piece graphic provides a guide in how to make behavior change with compassion, respect, and a proven scientific approach. A colored circle with 5 puzzle components each labeled: Health Needs, Enrichment & Breed Needs; Set Up for Success; Reward Behaviors You Like; Redirect Missteps all surrounding a paw print within a heart. The CATCH Canine Trainers Academy logo is in the corner.

Start with Health Needs. Rule out pain or illness first. Even minor discomfort can drive major behavior issues. Hormonal imbalances like diabetes or hypothyroidism can impact mood, energy, and behavior. A dog that suddenly becomes irritable, reactive, or lethargic may be in pain or dealing with an undiagnosed medical condition. Trainers should look for signs like a runny nose, appetite loss, or unusual fatigue and suggest a vet visit when needed. It’s okay to excuse a dog from training if they’re not feeling well. Good behavior change starts with good health.

Enrichment & Breed Needs. Dogs are sentient, intelligent beings who think, feel, and form relationships. Their behaviors are expressions of emotion, instinct, and personality. They need to sniff, explore, run, and play in ways that satisfy them. Breed-specific tendencies like digging, herding, or barking aren’t problems to fix – they’re natural drives to support. A herding dog nipping at kids needs redirection to wrestle with a large stuffed toy or a game of Treibball. A terrier digging up the garden may thrive with a sandbox and hidden treasures. From Vizslas pointing at walls (because, surprise, there were rats!) to Ridgebacks tracking wildlife, honoring genetics with the right outlets solves more problems than a punishing correction will. These aren’t “bad” behaviors needing to be “fixed,” they’re normal behaviors that need a bit of intervention and guidance to fit into our complicated society.

Enrichment goes beyond toys and simple walks. It means mental puzzles, scent work, physical activity, and social experiences tailored to the individual. Golden Retrievers may carry items during walks, while French Bulldogs thrive with playful tug games and sniffy strolls.

Enrichment must be dynamic and driven by understanding the individual dog and giving them choices. That means switching up textures, environments, and problem-solving opportunities, ensuring the dog gets to pick how they interact.

Set Up for Success. Use smart management to prevent unwanted behaviors. This might mean baby gates, tethers, or white noise to help a dog stay safe and relaxed. If a dog tends to bolt through doors, keep them leashed or install a doorway safety gate. If dogs in a multi-dog home argue over food, keep high value chews for crate times or feed them in separate rooms. Predict the problem and block it before it happens. This prevents the behavior from getting practiced and reinforced. It protects your relationship with the dog, as opposed to punishment which can damage the relationship. Management also reduces stress. Stress usually makes problems worse while no-stress keeps dogs open to learning and ready for training.

Reward Behaviors You Like. Dogs learn through repetition and emotion. That learning happens both in everyday moments and in intentional, step-by-step training. When something feels good and earns attention or treats (deliberate or not), they’re likely to do it again.

Real-Life Moments: Catch Good Choices as They Happen
If your dog jumps up when greeting people, teach them to sit or hand target as a new way to say hello. Reward it like it’s the best thing they’ve ever done. If they bark for attention, guide them to bring a toy or rest quietly by your feet, and reinforce that instead.

These aren’t just tricks. They are life skills that help dogs understand us and build lasting two-way communication and trust. This kind of in-the-moment feedback helps dogs make good choices again and again. You don’t need perfect timing or fancy cues. Just catch the moments you like: the calm sit, the toy delivered instead of a bark, the glance toward you before a distraction,and make those moments matter with praise, treats, or play. You will see them repeated because they “pay off” for the dog.

Training Plans: Build Skills One Step at a Time
Beyond real-life reinforcement, it’s essential to teach behaviors with thoughtful, step-by-step training. This means introducing a new skill in a quiet space, helping your dog succeed, and gradually increasing difficulty. Sit becomes stay. A glance becomes focus. Coming when called turns into a reliable recall, even around squirrels. A good training plan is like building a ladder: one rung at a time, with support and celebration at every step.

Think of it like giving your dog a roadmap. You’re not just hoping they stumble onto the right path. You’re walking it with them. You’re clearly marking the way and celebrating every correct turn. Over time, your dog learns to make better choices because they’ve experienced the joy of getting it right through repeated success, and they’ve practiced how to get there.

Redirect Missteps. When mistakes happen (and they will), guide your dog to a better option. Use a light noise or verbal cue to interrupt, then guide them to an alternate behavior you can reward. If they grab a sock, trade for a tug toy. If they start barking at the window, call them over for a treat. This is a powerful form of teaching that works right there in real life. Everything doesn’t have to be taught in formal training sessions. Redirection protects your bond while gently and clearly steering behavior in the right direction.

Solving the Behavior Puzzle is a framework designed to give clarity and confidence. It helps all of us teach with purpose and kindness. It also helps dogs feel seen, supported, and safe. This makes a big difference in successful behavior change!

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Dog Facial Expressions Are Not Unlike Our Own

Posted by David Muriello in Dog Training and Behavior
07.22.2024

Ever wonder what your dog’s facial expressions mean? Spoiler alert: It’s not always ‘I need a treat.’ Just like us, dogs use their faces to communicate a wide range of emotions. While their fur and different features might make it harder to decipher than human expressions, there are some telltale signs that can clue us into what they’re feeling.

First off, let’s talk eyes. If your dog’s eyes are relaxed, slightly closed and not wide/tense, that can mean they’re content and happy. Squinting or blinking slowly can also be a sign of trust and affection, much like when a human gives a warm smile. Imagine your dog saying, ‘Life is good and so are belly rubs.’ Conversely, eyes pulled wide open or darting away can signal stress or fear. Imagine the dog saying, ‘I’d rather not be in this situation, how do I get out of it?’

The mouth is another key area. A relaxed, open mouth generally means a happy pup. Compare this to a human’s broad smile. On the flip side, a tightly closed mouth or showing teeth in a snarl can be a sign of stress or aggression. Think of this as a human gritting their teeth or grimacing in anger or frustration. (Like your expression when you just realized your dog ate an entire pizza off the kitchen table.)

Next up, ears play a crucial role in expressing emotions. Perked up ears indicate curiosity, confidence, or alertness, while ears laid back can mean your dog is feeling scared or submissive. Human ears don’t move in the same way dogs’ do, so it’s not easy to compare those directly, but we can talk about brows and facial tension lines next…

Brows, the area on a dog’s forehead between and above their eyes can be very expressive. Dogs use their “eyebrows” to show curiosity, worry, or tension by raising or wrinkling them, just like we do.

Put all of this together and often times you can tell how a dog is feeling just by asking yourself, if that was a human face, what expression would that be? Pay attention to those details and you can unlock a deeper understanding of what your dog is trying to tell you in any given situation.

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Growling – Is it Bad?

Posted by David Muriello in Dog Training and Behavior
06.21.2024

Imagine a friend is poking fun at you and you’re both laughing but then they start taking it too far. It started out funny, but now you’re not loving it anymore. “Okay, hey, that’s enough,” you might say. Your reaction is a natural warning signal. For dogs, that natural signal is a growl, and it’s every bit as valuable as our human expressions of discomfort.

Growling is not a sign of a bad dog; it’s part of their language. It’s how our dogs say, “I’m not okay with this right now.” It could be a stranger coming onto their territory, or guarding a high-value toy, or feeling overwhelmed at the dog park. This vocal cue is their way of communicating stress, boundaries, or potential aggression – without resorting to more drastic measures (like an air snap or an actual bite).

When we scold a dog for growling, we’re essentially telling them to silence their feelings. It’s like taking the batteries out of a smoke alarm because we don’t like the sound. Without growling, we miss critical communication about our dog’s emotional state, which can lead to “surprise” bites that we didn’t see coming.

Instead of jumping right to punishment, let’s listen. A growl is a chance to back up, assess the situation, and address the root cause of our dog’s discomfort. It’s an opportunity for a teachable moment, to guide our dogs through their anxieties and show them there’s nothing to fear.

It’s not easy because growling can feel so intimidating and upsetting at first. But try to see the growl as an honest conversation starter. By understanding and respecting this canine signal, we reinforce trust and safety for everyone involved.

So next time you hear a growl, thank your dog for speaking up. They’re trusting you to respond with compassion and curiosity. Doing so will strengthen your bond and give you a chance to determine what’s wrong. Since growling can be related to aggression, seek the help of a professional certified trainer. You can find out what’s bothering your dog and get things back on track, for both of you.

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Sit, Stay, Jingle All the Way: Tips for Teaching a Polite Stay

Posted by Catherine Comden in Dog Training and Behavior
11.24.2023

The holidays are here, and your dog is… well, over there… and moving fast! You’d love for your dog to hold their position for the perfect Christmas photo, or to simply not jump on Gramma when she comes through the door. Teaching a solid stay can be fun and quick! Let’s get started…but first a pro tip:

Person sitting in kitchen teaching a doodle puppy to stay.

Even puppies can hold a STAY if you keep close and give frequent treats!

Don’t Go Anywhere! When teaching STAY, most people want to step away from their dog immediately, but teaching the dog to hold their position for a period of time before you step away will build the strongest STAY. 

Now that you’re ready to stay put, let’s teach your dog how to!

1. Get the Behavior: Bring some high-value food, such as small bits of cheese or chicken. Your first goal is to teach your dog that holding their position is a great idea. So, lure or cue your dog into the position – SIT or DOWN for example. Now start feeding a steady stream of 10 to 20 tiny treats, as quickly as the dog can eat them. 

  • If your dog is in a SIT, bring the treat all the way to their snoot, so they don’t get up to eat it.
  • If your dog is in a DOWN, place the treat on the floor between their paws, right where their nose naturally touches the ground.

Giving your dog the rewards when they are exactly where they should be helps them learn this position really “pays off!.” Then it will be easy for them to learn to hold the position for longer periods of time. Time is your first goal – remember to stay right next to your dog at first!

Three dogs sitting and staying at an open doorway.

Multiple dogs? Work with them individually before bringing them together to practice. Add a leash to prevent bolting.

2. Dog Relaxes: As you feed the initial stream of treats, watch for signs your dog is relaxing into the position. 

  • In a SIT, they may rock back onto their rump a little.
  • In a DOWN, they might flip a hip to the side or drop their shoulders a bit.

In either position, they won’t be wiggly or fidgeting between treats. When they begin to settle in, you can start to add a little duration. 

We’ll say it again: DON’T MOVE away from your dog. HOW LONG the dog holds position is more important than HOW FAR they are from you right now. 😉

3. Add Duration: Once your dog is settled, wait a little, before giving them a treat. You can still give them treats one at a time, but wait a few seconds between each one. Be random about how long you wait. 

  • For example, you might wait 1 second, then 3 seconds, then 2 seconds, then 7 seconds, feeding at the end of each pause.
  • Steadily increase the average time your dog waits between treats.

After you’ve done 5-7 repetitions of practice with various short lengths of time, use your release cue, so the dog knows they’re free to move. For example, say, “Break” and toss a treat away.

Woman outdoors with golden retriever sitting and staying.

Solid Sit-Stays are a foundation behavior as CATCH Grad Brie Marcotte demonstrates.

4. Add More Duration: Once your dog can hold their position for 10 seconds, change how long your dog has to wait between treats again: 

  • For example, you might give the dog a treat at 10 seconds, then 17 seconds, then 4 seconds, then 25 seconds, then 12 seconds.
  • At the end of the time, MARK, then REWARD.

Your MARK can be a word like “Yep!”, a tongue-click or a hand-held clicker. Keep it unique: only use during training sessions. 

These numbers are just a suggestion. The idea is to be unpredictable, which will keep your dog engaged longer than if you try to add one or two seconds between treats in a linear fashion (10 seconds, then 12 seconds, then 14 seconds, etc). 

5. Add a Cue: Once your dog has a nice settled position for at least 10 seconds with you standing right next to them, you can begin to pair that behavior with a verbal or hand signal. Say “STAY”, count your seconds silently, then feed your dog. 

  • The verbal cue, “STAY” begins the time.
  • After the dog eats, you can either release them with your release word or start another practice repetition by saying “STAY”.

6. A Step Away. Up til now, you’ve been right next to your dog, but if your plan is to be able to leave them in position, you can begin with just one step away. Say your “stay” cue, take one step and pause. mark that moment, then return to your dog to feed the reward. As you practice this, you can add a few more steps away, or make your pause a bit longer before you mark, return, reward.

Off lead dog sitting and staying. Caption says mark, return, reward.

A common mistake is to call your dog after a stay, which weakens the stay behavior. Instead, mark, return & reward!

7. Practice: Next, practice in other places, and practice for longer periods of time. To add more distance, lower the time the dog has to remain in position, then quickly return and reward. Keep the training sessions short and fun, and end each session on a positive note, even if your dog didn’t do perfectly.

Finally, just like when you learn to drive a car or dance the mambo, context is everything when training your dog. So that they can STAY when it matters most, include a variety of locations, distractions and friends in your practice sessions, always helping your dog succeed by starting with easier steps before progressing to the harder levels. And just like that, you’ll have that fabulous family photo, complete with your very good dog… and Gramma’s outfit will be paw-print free as well!

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Breezy Dog Walks Start With the Right Harness

Posted by Catherine Comden in Dog Training and Behavior
08.23.2023

Imagine you are preparing for a leisurely walk with your four-legged friend, ready to enjoy the outdoors together. But as soon as you step outside, your pup’s excitement takes over, turning what should be a relaxing stroll into a tug-of-war.

A person holds two leashes. Each one is attached to a harness on an Australian Shepherd.

Comfortable dogs being walked with Y-shaped harnesses.

Dealing with a dog that pulls relentlessly on the leash isn’t just an inconvenience; it can have an impact on your dog’s well-being. The good news is that there’s a solution: selecting the right harness. You can regain control and transform frustrating walks into enjoyable adventures. Let’s explore the different types of harnesses and how they can help. There are three common design types for walking harnesses: step-in, Y-shaped, and cross-chest.

Step-in harnesses are popular because they are easy to put on. Your dog simply steps into the harness, and you pull it up and snap it together. Step-ins typically have one connection point on the back, where the neck and chest pieces meet with D rings for leash attachment. Step-in harnesses made of mesh webbing with padding are a comfortable choice for small and smooth-coated dogs. However, they can rub the armpits if not properly padded, and they offer less adjustability. Snugly fitted step-in harnesses can also press uncomfortably against the spine. And that back-clip-only option tends to increase pulling for some dogs who love to lean into the pressure (think of an ox working while harnessed).

Black and white dog wearing a Blue-9 Balance Harness with leash clipped at two points. Image includes Blue-9 logo.

Dual connection points are a snap with the Blue-9 Balance Harness.

Y-shaped harnesses feature a single strap that fits between the front legs and attaches to a strap around the ribcage. The Blue-9® Balance harness, made of nylon webbing, is a good example of this style. There are two places to connect your leash – below the dog’s neck and on their back. If you connect the leash to both points, the front clip helps turn the dog if they pull, and then you can relax the front end of the leash while maintaining the back connection. Compared to other “no-pull” equipment, Y-shaped harnesses allow for more front leg range of motion.

The cross-chest harness is named for its horizontal strap that fits between the dog’s neck and sternum, parallel to the ground. Some brands have a loop on the cross-chest strap that tightens when pulled. Trainers who prefer to have more control over their dogs and restrict front leg movement often favor this style. While cross-chest harnesses can be helpful as a short-term training tool, it’s important not to overuse them.

Woman walks a shepherd with a Blue-9 Balance Harness.

Off to a great start with the right harness!

Research cited on the Blue-9® blog suggests that prolonged use of a cross-chest harness may lead to physical issues. Cross-chest harnesses may not be suitable for puppies whose bodies are still growing, as they can put additional stress on muscles and joints. Y-shaped harnesses are a better option for puppies, as they distribute pressure more evenly and do not pull the shoulders together.

Finding the perfect harness for your dog’s walking needs can be a game-changer, transforming your walks into enjoyable experiences for both of you. By considering the different harness designs and selecting one that suits your dog’s body type and preferences, you can gain better control and make your walks easier on you and your dog!

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Fetching Frames: Use Positive Reinforcement to Turn Dog Photos into Works of Art

Posted by Catherine Comden in Fun with Dogs
05.19.2023

Taking great photos of your beloved dog can be a delightful way to capture their personality and create lasting memories. However, it’s no secret that getting dogs to pose for the camera can sometimes be a challenge. That’s where positive reinforcement dog training comes in. By using this gentle and effective approach, you can set your dog up for success and get stunning photos that truly showcase their unique charm. Let’s explore how to employ positive reinforcement training to help your dog shine in every shot.

Black and white Australian Shepherd runs toward the camera holding an orange ball in her mouth.

Joyfully Fetching – Photo by Kara Hamiliton

Building a Positive Association: Just because your pup is used to seeing you holding your phone doesn’t mean they are comfortable with you pointing it at them. If you use a different camera, it’s even more important to help your dog relax around it. The first step in achieving fantastic photos is to make being in front of the lens a positive and enjoyable experience for your dog. Introduce your camera or phone gradually; hold it up, then toss your dog a treat. Practice looking like you are taking a shot and immediately feed more yummy treats. That’s a great way to get your dog thinking, “Gee, I hope it’s picture day!” and voila! happier body language for all your shots.

Brown, white and black mixed breed dog sits smiling in a staircase.

Wai can Sit and Stay on a staircase! Photo by Keala Baclayon

Training Basic Behaviors: Teaching your dog to sit and stay will lay a solid foundation for successful photo sessions. Lure your dog into a sit by holding a treat at her nose, and slowly moving it straight up, just a few inches. When she drops her rear, give her the treat. Adding duration so you can get the shot is as simple as feeding several treats in a row when she sits, feeding these quickly in early practice then increasing the time between treats as your dog’s skill improves. Next, work on being able to move away, just one step at first, then gradually add more steps. Always return and feed the dog while they are still sitting. (If they get up, you went too long or too far; make it easier for your dog and feed them in the sit position.) With a strong sit and eager stay, your dog can be in just the right spot for that perfect photo. 

Focus on Eye Contact: Engaging and expressive eyes can bring life to a photograph. Train your dog to make eye contact with the camera. Hold a treat near the camera lens and reward them when they look directly at it. If you want to get fancy, you can add some duration for this behavior by delaying the reward for a few seconds. You can gradually fade the need for a food lure by pointing at the lens while palming the treat, and reward your dog for looking at the lens itself. Regular practice of this cue will help you capture captivating and soulful gazes in your photos.

Red Vizsla running on a beach, toward camera.

Penny recalling at the beach. Photo by Catherine Comden

Capturing Action Shots: Action shots can showcase your dog’s energy and enthusiasm. Practice recall training in a safe and distraction-free environment by saying a new word like “HERE”, and dropping a jackpot of treats at your feet. Let your dog eat the food. Take a few steps away and repeat, “HERE” and drop the food. Again, let your dog enjoy it. Next, try running away a few feet, then repeat, “HERE” and when your dog catches up to you, give happy praise and yummy treats from your hand. With practice, you can begin to add more distance. (For dogs who are a flight risk, practice in a fenced area or attach a long (20-30 feet) line to their collar and keep hold of the end.) With a solid recall, you can capture stunning photos of your dog running towards the camera, their tail wagging and their joy evident. Provide enthusiastic praise and treats when your dog reaches you. With practice, you can capture stunning photos of your dog running towards the camera, showing their joyful energy.

Small black and brown dog smiling and standing in a planter

This pup is happy to be “planted” and photographed. Photo by Marion Bertaud

Short Sessions, High Rewards: Your dog doesn’t see the point of sitting in place while you stare at your camera or phone just a few feet away, so generously reward your dog throughout the session to keep them motivated. After capturing the desired shot, reward your dog with an extra-long sniffing session, especially if you’re in a new location with intriguing scents. This allows them to engage in a rewarding activity after patiently posing for you.

Positive reinforcement dog training is a powerful tool for capturing incredible photos of your best doggo friend. By building positive associations, training basic skills, focusing on eye contact, capturing action shots, and keeping sessions short and rewarding, you can create a relaxed and enjoyable experience for your dog while producing stunning photos that showcase their unique personality. So, grab your camera or phone, embrace positive reinforcement techniques, and let your dog’s true essence shine through the lens. Happy training and happy photographing!

 

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Make Your Own Awesome Tug Toy

Posted by David Muriello in Fun with Dogs
11.22.2022

Fleece Navidad?

With the holidays coming up, maybe you want to make your dog an extra special gift with your own hands? And hey, if you make more than one, you could turn it into a donation for shelter dogs… either way, we have an awesome DIY project for you! These hardy fleece rope toys are the BEST for tug games.

Here are the materials you’ll need:

  • Fabric scissors
  • Polar fleece type fabric (check your local thrift stores and upcycle a blanket!)
  • You’ll want long strips – at least 45″ for an (approx.) 2 ft tug.
  • You’ll need 4 strips 3-5 inches wide, depending upon how thick you want your final tug to be.

Here’s the finished product, ready for fetch and tug!

We’ve got the easy step-by-step instructions for you right here. The first one is the hardest to make, but the good news is that the dogs don’t care what it looks like, as long as you’re playing with them!

TIP:

  • Thick fleece should be cut to thinner widths unless you have a gigantic dog who opens really wide! The thicker fleece makes chonky tugs!
  • If you are making a tug for a Toy Breed, use thinner fleece and cut it 1-2” wide. (I’ve even made little tiny key chains for service dogs using thin strips.)

Most importantly, have fun presenting this special new gift to your dog and introduce it with a good round of play!

And the most important finished product… a happy dog!

 

 

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Travel Tips: Prep for a Joyful Road Trip with Your Dog

Posted by Catherine Comden in Dog Training and Behavior
06.08.2022

Summer is here – 7 Tips for Safer Travel

With summer here, you may be thinking about taking your dog on some new adventures out of town. You could have an unforgettable experience – but hopefully not for the wrong reasons! Here are some easy things you can do to make road trips with your dog a success.

Black tri-color dog posing on a small rock in front of El Capitan.

Joy in front of El Capitan at Yosemite National Park.

My dog Joy loves to travel because I’ve helped her love it, all her life. Even when she was a puppy, we went many places to have fun, make friends, and train together with lots of play and rewards. Recently, I made a plan to go on an extended trip in my trailer and even though I knew Joy had a great history with travel, I wanted her to feel completely comfortable and set her up to be as safe as possible. Here are 7 things I did to help her get ready for our cross-country adventure. Much of what you’ll see here applies to having a great and safe trip with your dog, whether you travel in an RV or a car and whether you are going a short distance or a long way.

  1. Vet Consultation. I took Joy to our favorite vet who was happy to ensure she was up to date on all her vaccinations. I asked about diseases and parasites that we don’t see much of in Oregon, like Lyme and Heartworm. Together we worked out a plan to prevent Joy from catching these and other potential diseases and parasites as we travel to other states. While we were there, I had them scan her microchip and was horrified to discover that I’d forgotten to update the information! I remedied that immediately. I also had a senior dog bloodwork panel done, just to be sure she’s healthy enough for the rigors of the trip. Other than the microchip blunder on my part, all was well.
  2. Truck Safety. I used a familiar and sturdy airline crate that Joy has traveled in previously. We did some reminder sessions for her “Crate” cue, and practiced her having a long-lasting chew inside the crate with the door closed. I secured the crate inside my truck’s crew cab so that her ride is not wobbly and that should we have to stop quickly, she won’t slide around. We also refreshed waiting at her crate door and the truck door before she’s allowed to exit.

    Joy waiting at the trailer door.

    An automatic “Wait” at camper and car doors helps keep your dog safe!

  3. Trailer Training. Before we moved into the trailer full-time, Joy and I did some day-time practice sessions, hanging out together in the trailer while I worked and she enjoyed a food puzzle or packed Kong. We practiced a cue for her to ascend or descend the steps. We practiced a default wait at the door – don’t come out unless you are called – all things that we have been able to translate from good manners at home. If your dog doesn’t already have these skills, work on them yourself or with a pro trainer. Be sure it’s fun for both you and the dog. There should not be any punishment during the practice, so that your dog enjoys the process and maintains her positive associations with your vehicle and you.
  4. Practice Separation. Since Joy and I spend so much time together already, I thought it would be good for her to go through a gradual process of learning to be alone in the trailer. We started after our day-training hang out sessions with me getting up, going to the door, going outside, closing it and immediately opening it again to come back inside. We gradually lengthened the time. Small steps are best for this; some dogs are really stressed by being in an unfamiliar place without their people… which is why the next step can also really help.
  5. Driveway Camping. You may find that your dog appreciates a couple practice sessions sleeping in a new place. This is better done in the driveway, in case you learn your pet needs their favorite toy in the middle of the night, or just a quick trip to the familiar backyard before settling in for the night. For Joy, after several nights in the trailer, she started seeing it as a comfortable and familiar place to settle in quickly. I was happy to see her relax!
  6. Practice Driving. Once your pet is really comfortable with your vehicle and their crate or restraint, it’s time to hit the road. Joy is a well-seasoned traveler, so once again, I didn’t worry too much about the motion. However, for some pets, simply starting the engine and immediately turning it off is enough for the first session. For animals with a good car-travel history, the process can go much more quickly; try taking a trip around the block and then letting them out for a fun play session when you arrive home again. Gradually increase short rides and always check that your pet is enjoying the experience. If they are not, start over.

    Catherine and Joy smiling together

    Catherine & Joy; Happy Campers!

  7. Shake-down Trip. It’s a good idea to take a weekend adventure, close to home, before you set out on a long road trip. RV’ers call this a “shake-down cruise” and it’s great to find out what else you need, what’s likely to break, what you forgot to check and to practicing towing and parking. It’s also wonderful for your pet. Our shake-down trip was over the fourth of July weekend and served a double purpose; Joy’s terrified of fireworks and I wanted to get her far from town. We ended up camping at a few Harvest Host vineyards and had a lovely, quiet adventure together. It was during that trip I knew we’d love going out for long adventures together on the road.

And I was right! Joy is a pleasure to travel with, and because of the training and prep work we’ve done, I know she’s safe and happy to keep going. May these tips serve you well in all your upcoming travel adventures with your dog. Have a great summer!

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Congratulations to Our Students & Mentors

Posted by David Muriello in CATCH News, Dog Business, True Dog Stories
11.17.2021

Earning Certifications, Getting Hired, There’s A Lot to Be Excited About!

We want to send out a big congratulations and a Thank You to so many of the students and mentors who have shared great stories with us so far this year. We are thrilled for your success!

In celebration of another great year, we put together a collection of photos and quotes from you, our community of students and mentor trainers. Cheers, it’s your passion and success that drives us every day…

“I passed my CPDT-KA exam!!! I owe it all to CATCH. Please tell the team I said thanks so much for all the awesome mentorship and coursework. It’s been an amazing journey.” -Tim A., Master Class Student

“Greatness will come to canine rescue and training from Sarah. I feel fortunate she came to Hudson Barks.” – Jennifer H., CATCH Mentor Trainer

“Victoria is very detail-oriented and her confidence grows every day. She started teaching classes for Dog Life Hoboken and now has private clients of her own. She can easily explain to her clients how dogs learn and teach them how to train their pups. She explains the real life applications of all the commands and makes training fun.” -Vera M., CATCH Mentor Trainer

“FYI today I earned my CPDT-KA. My first text was to my CATCH Master Class mentor Sue Grey, and I wanted to let you all know too. It has been a long road and now I start on a longer journey.”
– Christopher R., CCDT, Master Class Graduate

“My name is Ariel Ebaugh (Arie for short) and I graduated from CATCH Academy in August 2020. I wanted to share some exciting news about my life this past year since finishing my program. After graduating, I opened my private, in-home dog training business (Pups Unleashed, LLC) and haven’t looked back! I have absolutely loved working with clients using only rewarding, force-free methods supported by science. I also have spent hundreds of hours this past year training with at-risk dogs at a local animal shelter.
This past summer, I took the exam for the CPDT-KA certification. I was notified yesterday that I passed the exam! I am thrilled with this accomplishment and couldn’t have done it without all the knowledge and experience that I gained through my program with CATCH. I want to say thank you again to all the wonderful staff and mentors at CATCH for helping me pave my own way in this industry and help so many dogs in need.
Thank you again!”
– Arie Ebaugh, CCDT, Master Class Graduate

“I gave him his first client and he nailed it! Ben is going to be a real asset to the R+ community.” -Paula S., CATCH Mentor Trainer

“Hello from a 2020 CATCH Master Class graduate who also earned her CPDT-KA creds this Spring, thanks to your comprehensive program! I really enjoyed it!” -Maria S., CCDT, Master Class Graduate

“Heidi was exceptional. I never would have thought she had any less than 10 years of experience as a dog trainer. I believe as an industry we should be highly educated, skilled, science-based professionals rather than what exists typically. I am pleased that CATCH is part of raising the expectations for our profession. I am looking forward to her starting coaching a few class for me in a few weeks. Heidi is a soon-to-be graduate that CATCH will be proud to have.” – Jennifer P., CATCH Mentor Trainer

“What I appreciate about Megan is her comfort and command of the subject matter. That gives her the ability to offer insights, tips and tricks that a less knowledgeable trainer would not be able to provide.” – Carol P., CATCH Mentor Trainer

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Learn everything you’ve ever wanted to know about dog training and behavior in one of our renowned CATCH courses. You can study from your town, on your time, with a professional trainer as your guide. Get in touch with our friendly Student Support team anytime to tell us about your goals and become a dog trainer!

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