CATCH Canine Trainers Academy Blog

How to Stop Pulling on Leash – Part 2

A Stronger Connection Makes a Looser Leash

Pulling on leash is not only a safety issue, but it can also be a quality of life issue for you and your dog. Many dogs miss out on much-needed walks because their pulling makes it too difficult, embarrassing, or unsafe for their owner.

Whether huge (like this Mastiff) or little, a dog on a loose leash is a pleasure to stroll with.

Whether huge (like this Mastiff) or little, a dog on a loose leash is a pleasure to stroll with.

As we discovered in Part 1 of this series, the good news is that your dog’s pulling can be reduced greatly and quickly just by choosing the right (gentle) equipment. Now, if you are ready to do some training work, we’ll show you how you can develop a loose-leash walker by using your voice, some directional changes and rewards for your dog.

In “trainers-speak”, the first part of this series taught you about management solutions (the quick fix) and now we’re going to explore modification (long-term behavior training).

It Starts with Attention

The biggest thing to remember when you are training loose-leash walking is NOT to follow your dog when she pulls. You have to stop the pulling from being a reward and make paying attention to you the more rewarding behavior. (Not an easy task with all of the interesting sights and scents outdoors.)

Prepare a bag (or treat pouch) of small, tasty treats and keep the bag in your pocket so you’re ready to reward throughout the walk. Alternatively, if your dog is crazy about a certain toy, you can use tug as a reward, but treats are generally the easiest to dispense repeatedly.

Step 1: Teach your dog to look at you when you make a unique sound, such as a whistle, a word, a kiss, or a tongue-click. This is done by making your chosen sound and then praising and treating your dog each time she turns to look at you in response. If the outdoors is too distracting for your dog, start training attention to the sound indoors.

Step 2: Once your dog is paying attention to this new sound reliably, you can use it on walks. When you can see she is about to pull, make that sound, then stop dead in your tracks. When your dog looks at you to “check in,” immediately praise and offer a treat, encouraging her to come over to you to get it. After giving the treat, walk in any direction other than the way the dog was pulling, giving more encouragement for your dog to follow.  If she follows, give another reward!

loose leash

Beautiful slack in this line comes as a direct result of the dog’s attention on the handler.

Step 3: Throughout your walks, continue to reward whenever the dog responds to your signal. Rewards can be given for: a) paying attention, and b) following you. Don’t always wait for your dog to start pulling before you give your signal. Give it whenever you are going to change direction, so you can “clue her in” and she doesn’t have to hit the end of the leash.

Step 4: Sometimes, give out rewards without any signals at all – just for the dog paying attention on her own, or for following you (instead of the other way around). Within a week of practice, you’ll have a dog who is very interested in checking in with you and following you. This will strengthen your connection, which makes for a much looser leash. That’s a win for both of you!

Note: This training works especially well with young puppies who have not yet learned that pulling is rewarding (gets you to follow). If your dog is a deeply established puller and/or you often run into distractions that cause her to ignore you no matter what you do, use the management techniques described in part 1 and consider working with a professional trainer in a private or group class setting. Working with a professional can do wonders for you and your dog.

If you have ever thought about becoming a professional yourself, talk to us at CATCH!

How to Stop Pulling on Leash

A Drag Down the Sidewalk? No Yanks!

Some trainers recommend that you stop or turn around every time your dog pulls. But, it’s nearly impossible for you to walk your dog while stopping every time he pulls! It’s time for different solutions.

Some trainers recommend that you stop or turn around every tie your dog pulls. But, it’s nearly impossible for you to walk your dog while stopping every time he pulls!

Pulling on leash is a drag for both you and the dog. Sadly, many good dogs miss out on regular walks because their exuberant pulling makes it too unpleasant for their owner, or in some cases, totally unsafe. With a low center of gravity and “four wheel drive” power, even small and medium-sized dogs can quickly exhaust their owner’s arms and be tough to control.

The good news is that your dog’s pulling can be greatly reduced – and fast – just by choosing the right (gentle) equipment. Then, if/when you are ready to do some training work, you can modify the behavior on a regular flat collar. In this two-part article, we’ll teach you both types of training solutions: first, management (the quick fix) and  then modification (long-term behavior training).

To start, let’s explore: why do dogs pull?

  • A dog’s natural pace is much faster than ours.
  • Dogs are interested in more scents, sights, and sounds than we are and they want to investigate them all, now. This is especially true of young pups.
  • Dogs don’t know that the sidewalk is the designated “walking zone” – they follow their interests, not the path.

All of the above are reasons why a dog hits the end of the leash. Once that happens, dogs keep pulling the whole time, every walk, every day, because it works! Every dog quickly learns that when they pull, they go in the direction they want, because we follow (to make it easier on us, in the short term). Some trainers recommend that you stop or turn around every time your dog pulls. But, it’s nearly impossible for you to walk your dog while stopping every time he pulls! So, let’s look at different solutions that work:

Management

Management is a trainer’s term for “get it under control” without having to do any training work. In other words, set the dog up for success, regardless of his behavior issues. Management is great if you don’t have any time to train and you want the problem under control right away. Even if you are planning on doing a lot of training work later, the first step is management, so that the behavior stops getting practiced as soon as possible.

Easy Walk Harness

The front-clip harness is easily accepted by most dogs, and can quickly reduce their pulling strength anywhere from about 50 – 90%.

The most humane and effective tools to manage pulling are front clip harnesses and head halters. Both will make it difficult for the dog to have the momentum and control to pull you, and they do so without causing the dog pain. The front clip harness is easily accepted by most dogs, and can quickly reduce their pulling strength anywhere from about 50 – 90%, starting on the very first walk. The head halter takes a little more time to fit and get the dog used to, but it is extremely powerful and can make some of the toughest pullers feel as light as a feather. This “power steering” tool takes away the dog’s leverage by connecting at a point that is hard to pull from – his head and chin. Also, where the head goes, the body follows, hence one popular product’s name – the Gentle Leader.

There are many good front clip harness and head halter products available to you, and they are easily found in pet stores and online retailers. Check out Premier, Sense-ation, Sporn, and Halti – all established brands that have been reducing pulling for years.

Stay tuned: In our next blog/newsletter, we’ll talk about how to modify pulling behavior for the long-term, regardless of what equipment you use. Sign up for the newsletter on the left side of this page.

How to Get Dogs Off Furniture (Happily!)

You Can Have Your Couch Back Now

No matter how much you love your dog, you may not love fur, dirt, and scratches on your couch. Many owners who taught their pups to “come on up” now wish their adult dogs would just stay down.

"Make it cozy and I'll be there."

“Make it cozy and I’ll be there.”

Maybe you prefer your dog to only jump on the furniture when invited. Or, maybe you’ve established those rules, but you notice that whenever you’re not in the room, your dog knows the couch is there for the taking! (It only takes one piece of fur in the threads to know he “cheated” on you, right?)

The Good News.

It’s not so hard to get your dog off the furniture in a positive and loving way. You just have to change his motivation. Follow these 5 steps to get your couch back:

  1. Purchase a very comfortable dog bed, ideally with sides your dog can lean up against and curl into. The bed does not have to be fancy, just cozy.

    Great Bed by Dog Bed King USA

    Dogs love beds that have a side they can lean into.

  2. You’ll also want to purchase a clever bumpy mat, called an X-Mat. These mats are harmless, but uncomfortable to lie on, the perfect tool to assist with your goal. Get however many X-Mats you need to cover whatever furniture you want to be off limits. X-Mats are very easy to find and order online.  (You might have something around the house you can use instead. But, I like the way you can slide the X-Mat behind or under the couch when you’re in the room, and quickly pull it out and lay it down whenever you’re not around to supervise.
  3. The clever X-Mat is easy to find, easy to use, and very effective.

    The clever X-Mat is easy to find, easy to use, and very effective.

    When the bed arrives, make an excited fuss over how wonderful it is. Bring it near the furniture you want your dog to stop going on and place it down on the floor there. You are going to make this the new, exciting, and better resting place that your dog now chooses over the furniture.

  4. Rub your hands and feet on the resting areas of the new bed, so that your scent gets absorbed into it. Toss a few treats into the bed and then give your dog something delicious to chew by placing it right in the bed. For example, a stuffed Kong, a marrow bone, or any other treat you have identified as a safe favorite. It’s okay if your dog takes the chewable item from the bed to somewhere else, but place it in the bed to start with.
  5. You can also put an old t-shirt, sock, or towel with your scent on it in the bed. This is something that smells like you that your dog can chew on, play with, or cuddle into. However he decides to enjoy that item, always return it to the bed if he takes it out from there.

The final steps are simple, you just need to repeat these two:

1) Give your dog fun treats and chewies in his new bed once a day or more. Start out doing this when you’re in the room with him, then begin leaving him alone with his treat in his bed.

2) Whenever you are not on the couch, put an X-Mat down there, making sure to cover any part of the furniture your dog would normally like to rest on. It is critical that you cover the couch with an X-Mat every single time you are not there to take up the space or supervise your dog’s behavior. This sets up the ideal situation – the dog makes his own choice that his bed is the best possible place to be.

"Our bed is the place to be since puppyhood - accept no substitutes."

“Our bed is the place to be since puppy hood – accept no substitutes.”

Follow these steps with total consistency and within 2 – 6 weeks, your dog will have become addicted to his bed, and forgotten about the couch. After 6 weeks (max), you can put away the X-Mats and expect your dog to go to his bed as a matter of habit and preference. Enjoy your clean couch with a happy, comfy pooch at your feet!

~

Interested in becoming a master of behavior solutions? Click here to learn more about what CATCH can do for you.

 

Lions and Tigers and Bears – Oh My!

Dogs Taking Over the House?

If you’ve ever had more than one dog in your home, you know life can sometimes feel like a circus, or even a jungle! Lions and tigers and bears might be easier to handle than a house full of dogs.

Quartet

This gorgeous quartet can be fun or frenzy!

Life with “your pack” can be tons of fun. But, those of us who do it know that two dogs are more than twice the work of one, and three or four can feel like twelve. Several dogs can bring fun and energy to your home, as long as they’re managed well and they’re well-suited to your lifestyle and each other. In order to maximize the fun and tone down the chaos, there are a few simple tricks that can be extremely valuable to the multi-dog owner.

1. Teach One Name that Calls Them All

You can choose anything from “dogs,” to “monsters,” but it’s a whole lot more efficient than calling, “Sparky, Princess, Spike, Lily, Cisco…” for sure! To do this, you just say the name in an attention-getting voice, and reward any dog who looks. It won’t take too many tries for everyone to be willing participants in this game and catch on! Once they’ve mastered their group moniker, you’re well on your way to keeping them under control and looking like a lion-tamer.

2. Treat Each Dog as an Individual

Many people get bogged down with the idea of treating every dog in the house exactly the same, all the time. For example, if you take one dog to the vet, you may feel like by leaving the others behind, they’ll feel bad, so you take the others out for a little trip later to make up for it. One dog got a cookie for sitting politely at the door, but the rest need one too, so that you can sleep soundly at night knowing that you’re a good dog mom. When dogs don’t learn how to tolerate frustration, it can lead to huge problems for them, and especially for you. So, don’t get hung up on making sure that you treat every single dog exactly the same every minute of every day. They are individuals, and treating them as such will help them, and you, and relieve a lot of stress for all involved.

3. Teach the Same Manners to Everyone

Training 3 Dogs to Stay

Teaching these guys to stay was as easy as 1-2-3!

It really helps to teach your group of dogs to perform behaviors as a group – specifically key manners behaviors like “Get Back” or “Stay”. This is more difficult than doing something with a single dog, but not as challenging as you might think. You can break the process down into a few simple steps. First, teach each dog a behavior like “Stay,” on their own.  Practice it with each individual separately until they are reliable on their own. (Side note: Yes, you should keep the other dog(s) in another room or behind a gate while you teach your pupil. Remember, they can handle it and it’s good for them to learn a little patience! Use a stuffed Kong as a distraction if needed.) Once you’ve taught each dog separately, begin to practice with two at the same time, until they’re reliable together. If you have more than two, keep adding one dog at a time. Once they’ve got the basics as a group, you can add little distractions, one at a time, and at a slow pace. If you are adding distractions to the entire group, and one dog isn’t getting it, work with that individual separately to bring him up to speed. Training the “entire team” takes a little extra time, but when your dogs are well-mannered as a group, you’ll be impressed and pleased, and so will your friends!

Inspired by dogs? Check out this video of our students and mentors training theirs!

How Smart is My Dog?

How Dognition can Give You a New Perspective on Your Best Friend

CATCH is thrilled to bring you this special guest blog with Dr. Brian Hare, the Director of the Duke Canine Cognition Centre and author of the New York Times Bestseller, The Genius of Dogs.

Dr. Brian Hare and Tassie

Dr. Brian Hare and his adopted mixed breed, Tassie

As a dog researcher, if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that you never stop learning. I thought that after fifteen years of researching dog cognition, I would have a pretty good idea of what my dog Tassie would do in Dognition, a tool I created to help people find out how their dogs think. It turns out I was totally taken by surprise.

My dog Tassie is a black shelter mutt we adopted from the Orange County Animal Shelter. Tassie isn’t the most affectionate dog I’ve owned. He is more interested in object play, and loves solving problems. So I thought he would perform really well in the Reasoning dimension, which requires logic and reasoning abilities. It turns out he was much more on the Impulsive end of the Reasoning. He made decisions on the fly, and didn’t really think through the solutions the way I thought he would. On the other hand, in the Empathy games, he came out as being on the far Bonded end of the scale.

This helped me look at Tassie in a new way. I realized that even though he wasn’t a big hugger, he spends a lot of time seeking eye contact – which science has shown increases oxytocin in both owners and their dogs. (Oxytocin is a hormone associated with feelings of bonding, pleasure and affection.) At the same time, I could be a little more understanding when Tassie gets confused by gravity when playing fetch (he has a tendency to drop the ball on a hill).

Using a "two-cups" test to reveal a dog’s unique style of intelligence.

Using a “two-cups” test to reveal a dog’s unique style of intelligence.

Decades of the best cognitive and neurobiological research no longer supports the idea of a single dimensional measure of intelligence. The brain is not either more or less full of intelligence, like a glass of water. Instead, the brain is more like a computer, where different parts are specialized for solving different types of problems.

After working with thousands of service dogs, military dogs and pet dogs, I created Dognition as a tool to reveal a dog’s unique style of thinking. Dognition is not about ranking a dog’s IQ — it’s about discovering which cognitive skills an individual dog relies on to navigate the world.

In the last decade, we have learned more about how a dog’s mind works than we have in the past century. Dognition is a synthesis of all this research that can be used by anyone. Essentially, Dognition is a series of games that assess what researchers believe are five core competencies of cognition: Empathy, Communication, Cunning, Memory, and Reasoning. Each game in the Toolkit is based on peer-reviewed scientific studies from canine cognition experts. These methods have proven to be effective measures of each cognitive dimension.

When training, every trainer knows that each dog requires a different approach. Dognition is about finding the cognitive strategies that a dog uses to navigate their world. Perhaps they are a great communicator, and can read their human like a book. Or perhaps one dog is a little less social, but a great problem solver.

One of many badges that might signify your dog's thinking style.

One of many badges that might signify your dog’s thinking style.

Dognition is about finding out a dog’s cognitive strengths, and this can be invaluable to informing a training strategy. For instance, if a dog scores high in Cunning, then they are skillful at using their owners’ information to deceive them. A cunning dog pays close attention to where their owner is looking, and is not above disobeying if they think they can swipe a treat without their owner noticing. An owner may think that their dog is disobedient because they are stupid – on the contrary, a cunning dog is disobedient because they are too smart!

So if you have ever stared into a dog’s eyes and wondered what they are thinking, Dognition can help you find out.

Please accept this invitation to try it for free today. I bet you’ll discover some surprising insights about your best friend: https://www.dognition.com/portal/users/sign_up

-Brian Hare

Dr. Brian Hare is an Associate Professor at Duke University and the Director of the Duke Canine Cognition Centre. Dr. Hare is also a co-founder of Dognition and the author of the New York Times Bestseller, The Genius of Dogs.

Announcing Discounts for dog*tec Students and Graduates

Industry Leaders Teaming Up

dogtec logoExciting news! We’ve teamed up with dog*tec to arrange generous discounts for students and graduates of any dog*tec program. If you’re interested in learning modern, professional training techniques that will add fascinating work and additional income to your business, CATCH courses will get you certified with the knowledge and skills you need.

"This deal is so good, I could kiss you." -Hazel

“This deal is so good, I could kiss you.” -Hazel

Whether you are a graduate or an existing student with dog*tec, you can take advantage of 10% off the price of any course you choose, as follows:

  • Master Class: $349 off
  • Basics Pro: $134 off
  • Master Class pay plan:$99 off
  • Basics Pro, pay plan:$110 off

Get Certified with a State-Licensed Course and Take Advantage of the Huge Market for Training and Behavior Services.

Call Student Support to get your dog*tec discount while the offer lasts!

877.752.2824 (877.75.CATCH)

studentsupport@catchdogtrainers.com

Is Your Dog Good with Kids? Be Sure.

How are Dogs Like Knives?

Great times or headed for trouble? (Or both?)

Great times or headed for trouble? (Or both?)

Dogs are “man’s best friend” for a reason – they’re naturally wonderful companions. But, they also have knife-sharp teeth, strong jaws, and they communicate with their mouths. With the automatic assumption that every dog is a “best friend”, we often get kids (and the dogs we love) in trouble. Would you let your kid play with knives unsupervised?

“Dog bites are the fifth highest reason why children seek emergency room treatment due to activities they voluntarily engage in…”1 You can make everyone around your dog safer by understanding a very important distinction – the difference between a dog tolerating attention versus enjoying it.

Most dogs deliver us a lifetime of tolerance. They are often great with kids, being gentle with their strong bodies and jaws, allowing all kinds of rough treatment. This makes us forget that dogs are not stuffed animals for unlimited cuddling (much as some of us hate to admit it). Remember, the upside of a good interaction is a wagging tail and a smiling child, but the downside of a bad interaction is a bite that scars a child’s face (and mind), plus a dog that may need to be removed from the family. This is why kids and dogs together must be taken seriously. There are 3 basic things that all dog owners, trainers, and parents can remember to increase the safety of interactions between dogs and children.

1. Everyone has their limits.

Be aware that no matter how wonderful your dog is, there is always a limit to how much she can take. A dog who growls at a toddler for pulling her ear for the hundredth time this week is probably not a bad dog overall. But, we’ve reached the (very high) limit that she’s been pushed to, and we need to intercede to prevent things from escalating to a bite. Don’t find your dog’s limits. Intervene before the limit is reached.

2. Look for signs of stress.

Is this dog eager to be approached? (Answer at end of article)

Is this dog eager to be approached? (Answer at end of article)

Dogs CAN have a bad day. Humans have temper tantrums when they’re stressed, cats scratch when pushed, and if you’ve ever been on a horse, you know that you have to sign a release first because horses can break your bones with one frightened toss of their head. Dogs aren’t happy-go-lucky in all situations either. Bad days will happen when a lot of stress piles on at once.  Signs of stress include turning away, crouching, yawning, lip-licking, shaking-off, panting, ears back, hiding and more. Don’t ignore these signs, especially when kids are interacting with your dog.

3. Intervene early

If you think a dog may be stressed in an interaction with a child, intervene now. Not sure? Don’t risk it. A simple test you can try is to remove the child from the situation and then see if the dog comes back to the child for more attention. This will tell you if the dog was enjoying the interaction (comes back for more), or just tolerating it (stays away, or leaves the scene). If the dog was just tolerating it, give her a break for everyone’s sake.

The Wrap:

When we’re smart about it, kids and dogs can be best friends. There are plenty of dogs who will actively seek out children to play with. They’re a thrill to watch together. But, not all dogs fit that mold. “She loves kids,” is often used to describe a tolerant dog who is being chased around the house with a toddler grabbing her tail like a water skier. When we take a moment to look at this situation closely, we can see that the dog is stressed and trying to avoid conflict. If we don’t help the dog right then, a bite is her only way out.

It’s our job to parent – the dogs and the kids. So remember: every dog has their limits, look for signs of stress, and intervene early. All members of your family will be happier and healthier for it.

Answer to the photo caption above:  The pit mix looks stressed (ears back and down, mouth closed and tense, “eyebrows” up in a worried expression). She is not inviting an interaction with the person approaching (her head is turned away from camera and she is looking up to her owner for support). A dog inviting an interaction would be turned towards the person approaching, and have a relaxed face, likely with an open mouth and ears in a more neutral or forward position.

Learn more about how you can become skilled at reading dog body language.

1Incidence of Dog Bite Injuries Treated in Emergency Departments (1992-1994) by H. Weiss, D. Friedman and J. Coben, JAMA, 1998

Good Times Your Dog Won’t Want to Miss

Whipping Up Biscuits

Cooking up training skills isn’t the only fun thing we do around here. Want to give an awesome gift to your dog, or to a dog lover you adore? These homemade biscuits can be whipped up with just 4 ingredients in no time. They look and taste fantastic!

With oatmeal & peanut butter - people can eat them, too!

With oatmeal & peanut butter – people can eat them, too!

I love doing projects with my son, and my new neighbor has 3 dogs that he adores – so what better to do last weekend than bake up gourmet dog treats as a gift for everyone?! We got a wonderfully easy recipe from dogtreatkitchen.com and had a blast baking them. With only 4 ingredients including oatmeal and peanut butter, people can eat them, too! (Sprinkle a little sugar on the human version, and voila, it’s a true cookie.)

So, what do you need? Just oatmeal, flour, water, and peanut butter. One egg is optional. If you’d like to add other fun stuff like chicken/beef stock or bananas, go right ahead.

Serious Cooking Techniques for Serious Dog Lovers

Serious Cooking Techniques for Serious Dog Lovers

Kids love working on this, and they make it even more fun. So if you have any little ones around, get them involved! The first step is to mix the four ingredients into a dough and flatten it out. Then you make your shapes. Once you move them over to the cookie sheet, you have the option to brush on the glaze from a beaten egg. This adds a little flavor and a gourmet looking sheen that will “wow” whoever you gift these to. If you are giving these right to a dog, don’t bother with wrapping. But, if you are gifting to a friend, they look great in a mason jar with a ribbon around the top.

There are no preservatives in these so remember to refrigerate. Get the full recipe details here.

If you want to get your training skills and dog career cookin’, learn more about what CATCH can do for you here.

Dog Life Insurance = Coming When Called

Get a Reliable Recall (or at least a MORE reliable one)

I LOVE to take my dogs hiking off-leash in the woods and open fields. Therefore they must come when called. Even if you don’t like to give your dog off-leash time, having a reliable recall can literally save his life. If you drop the leash, or he runs out an open door, your dog may be on his way to the road or who knows what other trouble. Your dog must know to come when called! All my dogs have learned this and so have clients’ dogs who have stayed in my home and hiked with my family. Here’s one of my favorite simple methods for teaching dogs to be reliable off-leash:

  1. I'm Cooooooooommming!

    I’m Cooooooooommming!

    Reserve very high value, healthy, rewards ONLY for practicing recalls in the outdoors (ex., boiled chicken).

  2. Practice with a hungry dog to enhance the reward value (e.g., skip breakfast and go out in the morning).
  3. Start out on a long line to ensure safety and to ensure that if the dog ignores you he does not have more fun ignoring you than listening to you.
  4. Reward all good responses to recalls with generous amounts of tasty treats, praising and rewarding for at least 15 seconds straight.  Then, say OK! and…
  5. Immediately let the dog run back out into nature and freedom.

That last step is important.  The release back into freedom becomes a reward in and of itself! Follow the steps above to treat yourself and your dog to freedom and peace of mind. It’s a priceless combo.

Why is THAT the Puppy I WANT!?

What does my Dog Choice Mean for my Life?

Cattle Dog

Why do we choose the dogs we do? Whether you’re a dog owner, a trainer, or a rescue worker, it’s valuable to understand this. There IS one moment when you choose the dog you will spend years with. What made YOU pick out the dog that you have now? Was it the black splotch over his eye? Was it the fact that she looked just like the last dog you had? How about that it had to be a boy, and this was the last boy in the litter? Or was it that you’ve always had Golden Retrievers and wanted another, and it had to be cream colored, too?

It’s no secret that most of us pick our dogs based on looks.

As humans, we are highly visual, and we base a lot of decisions on the way things look. Sometimes it works out for us, and sometimes it doesn’t. Just because a dog is gorgeous doesn’t mean he will be well behaved. Just ask show dog owners. Their confident, energetic dogs are notorious for naughtiness.

What about breed bias?

Most of us have a breed preference, or at least a size preference. Maybe we only want “real” dogs and that means they have to be over 50, or 60, or 100 pounds! Or maybe your version of a “real” dog is one you can pick up, snuggle into your cheek, and share your pillow with.

There are practical limitations. Many of us are limited by the rules of our landlord or community. Perhaps your choices are restricted by your allergies (hypoallergenic doodle, anyone?).

Looks and limitations aside, we have to be careful to judge every dog as an individual.

PugChoosing a dog based on her personality (behavioral tendencies) is a rare thing, even among knowledgeable, educated dog professionals. Putting personality over looks takes a certain wisdom (usually acquired after owning a dog or two) and those who do it reap the rewards. If you want to find a personality that will compliment your life (instead of complicate it), be honest about your lifestyle and the kind of dog that fits into it. If you’re an athlete who likes to spend lots of time exercising with your dog, or you want to teach her tons of tricks, a sporting or herding breed will probably be great for you. But, will she still be a great choice in a few years, if you get married, have children, or get promoted at work? Only if you still carve out the time for her.

You can always find a few sporting or herding dog individuals that have minimal exercise needs.

But, that doesn’t fit with the average for these breeds. A rare, calm example of an active breed can still be great for you if you get married, have a few children, and get promoted. But, it’s unlikely that you’ll find her if you choose based on looks alone!

Whether you are getting a puppy from a breeder or adopting an adult from a shelter, no one ignores looks completely. After all, we live with dogs to enjoy having a beautiful animal brighten up our living rooms, bedrooms, and yards every day. Our advice is to keep looks near the top of your list, but make sure you prioritize behavioral tendencies, and the dog’s likelihood to fit into your lifestyle. Your long-term relationship will succeed when you choose the dog whose behavior suits you most.  Besides, after a while, no matter which dog you have, you’ll think she’s the cutest thing on four legs!

For more on How to Choose a Great Dog for You, read the article by the same name found here.


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Phone: 877-752-2824